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Applying sealer to your concrete is one of the smartest things that you can ever do to your concrete surfaces. Sealing concrete such as sealing a brand-new walkway, patio, or driveway prevents the concrete from rain damage, staining, and overall wear and tear from normal usage. But it is hard to tell how long after sealing concrete can you walk on it, and it will ruin your investment if done too early. 

The short answer is that all concrete sealers are ready for light foot traffic in 4 to 8 hours, but there are some important details to the tale that all property owners are well advised to know before doing their sealing project. When you choose a professional like Bill’s Custom Concrete, we’ll provide all the advice you need to avoid a disaster! 

Concrete Sealer Drying Period 

Several environmental and product-related variables determine how fast the concrete sealer effectively cures and dries.

Temperature is Key 

Warmth is the biggest contributor to the drying time for concrete sealer. The warmer it is, the quicker the chemical reactions to dry sealers down to a hard finish. The colder it is, the longer it will take. A majority of sealers perform their best when it is 50°F to 90°F. You should be able to dry enough for foot traffic on 85°F summer concrete within 2 to 4 hours. Temps below 60°F may take 8 to 12 hours, or longer.

Humidity Levels Affect Curing 

Humid air will tend to greatly increase drying times, since the resulting moisture impedes adequate curing of the sealer. 6 hours on normal days may turn into 10 to 12 hours on humid days. Low humidity in the air plus adequate air movement reduce drying times on sealers.

Type of Sealer 

The sealer type used largely impacts concrete sealer dry time. The fastest drying is performed by acrylic water-based sealers, with some permitting foot traffic after 4 to 6 hours of drying. Solvent-based sealers permit foot traffic after a 6 to 8-hour wait. Polyurethane and epoxy sealers owing to their hardness require a 12 to 24-hour wait before being able to accommodate foot traffic.

How to Check if Your Concrete Sealer is Dry 

Rather than assume the sealer has dried, use these easy methods to ensure that it is sufficiently dry for foot traffic.

The Touch Test 

Gently press an unseen part of the closed surface using the fingertip. Should the sealer stick or deposit any material on the fingers, it requires additional drying time. A properly dried sealer should be smooth on the fingers and dry.

Visual Inspection 

New sealer will seem shiny and watery-looking and will even out over time as it cures. Inspect any spots that continue to be darker or shinier than the balance of the surface, since these areas most likely require a little extra curing time.

Paper Test 

Place a small sheet of paper on the surface for a brief period of time. If the paper sticks or picks up any sealer upon its removal, the surface isn’t yet ready for pedestrian use.

Planning Your Sealing Project for Success 

Precise timing avoids issues and gives you your optimum outcome on any concrete sealer job. Observe the weather and select a day with a moderate temperature and low humidity. Coat the concrete when no rain is forecast in the 24-hour period thereafter, as moisture can impede proper curing.

Start sealing early in the morning so that the sealer has the maximum amount of time to dry before temperatures drop by evening. This will also ensure that you will not have to cross the surface during the critical early cure time.

Keep in mind that although most sealers can withstand foot traffic 4-8 hours after the application was done, the complete curing can take 24-48 hours. Avoid placing heavy objects or driving vehicles on the floor finish prior to the sealer curing based on the instructions. 

How long does it take for concrete sealer to dry? Choose Bill’s Custom Concrete as one of the best concrete contractors in Edmond, OK, to save yourself the stress and hassle. Our experienced professionals will handle everything for you! 

When you’re ready to have any concrete work done on your house, knowing about rebar needs can help you save time, money, and future structural issues. As residential concrete services in OKC, Bill’s Custom Concrete can give expert guidance tailored to your project. 

Rebar, which stands for reinforcing bar, is what gives the tensile strength that concrete does not possess on its own. Whereas concrete is great for resisting compressive forces, it is quite weak when it is pulled or stretched. That’s where rebar comes into play.

The choosing of the correct rebar size is project-specific, local code-specific, and specific to the structural demands of your concrete project. Homeowners often ask, what size rebar is used in residential concrete? From a foundation to a patio or driveway pour, the right rebar sizing will have your concrete standing for years to come.

Standard Rebar Sizes for Foundations

Foundation work typically requires heavier rebar than most home projects. #4 rebar (1/2 inch diameter) is standard for most home project foundations. This size of rebar possesses sufficient strength to provide reinforcement for the typical loads that residential foundations must support.

Stem walls and foundation walls typically employ #4 rebar in a horizontal and vertical grid that distributes the loads uniformly. The bars are typically spaced between 12 and 18 inches on center, but closer spacing may be mandated by local building codes.

For larger houses or homes constructed on more problematic types of soil, engineers will need #5 rebar (5/8 inch diameter) for additional strength. Local building codes always need to be consulted and provision made for obtaining foundation plans approval from a structural engineer for unique circumstances. What size rebar for a concrete slab? Anyone with doubts should consider the specifics of the slab and soil condition.

Rebar for Driveways and Patios

Patios and driveways receive different stresses than foundations, primarily thermal expansion and vehicular loading. For these applications, #3 reinforcement (3/8 inch diameter) is typically sufficient.

A concrete driveway is normally 4 to 6 inches thick, with #3 rebar placed in a grid at approximately 18 to 24 inches on center. The rebar should be placed approximately in the middle of the thickness of the concrete to do the most good. For thicker slabs or heavier traffic, #4 rebar might be necessitated. This makes the choice of rebar size for a slab a key deciding factor.

Patio slabs also use the same sizes of rebar, possibly with more widely spaced intervals since they do not carry vehicular loads. Nevertheless, patios that are exposed to freeze-thaw cycles benefit from sufficient reinforcement to prevent cracking. The ideal rebar for a concrete patio balances strength and cost-efficiency for your intended use.

Reinforcing Concrete Walls with Rebar

Concrete walls, such as retaining walls and above-grade foundation walls, need attentive rebar placement to resist vertical loading in addition to horizontal pressure. #4 rebar is the most typical for concrete walls in residential building.

Retaining walls are subjected to pressure from the soil on one side, thus requiring horizontal reinforcement. Rebar is vertical and horizontal and consists of horizontal bars spaced 12 to 16 inches apart vertically and vertical bars spaced 16 to 24 inches apart horizontally.

Higher walls or those supporting heavy soil loads can necessitate #5 or even #6 rebar, especially in the lower courses where pressures are greatest. Thickness of the wall also affects rebar needs, with thicker walls generally accepting larger bar sizes.

How Do Experts Select Rebar?

Bill’s Custom Concrete considers a number of factors when we are deciding on rebar sizes. We look at building codes, use, climate, and soil type. We also consider proper concrete cover, which means we ensure that there is enough concrete over the rebar for structure and protection.

Most professionals employ standardized charts and engineering calculations to establish optimal rebar placement and sizing. They recognize that undersized rebar can cause structural failure, whereas oversized rebar is a waste of money without offering proportionate advantages.

Choosing the Right Rebar Size for Your Project

Choosing the right sizes of rebar is a balancing act between structure requirements, code conformity, and economy. Whereas #3 rebar will suffice for lighter-duty applications such as sidewalks and patios, foundations and structural members generally need #4 or larger sizes.

Always verify local building codes before starting any concrete project. Most jurisdictions have their own rebar size, spacing, and placement requirements that override general recommendations. If unsure, a consultation with Bill’s Custom Concrete will assure your project will not only be safe but also pass local building codes.

Good rebar selection is the cornerstone of long-lasting concrete work that will keep serving your home well decades from now! 

Retaining walls are a regular part of landscaping used to support the soil and prevent erosion in sloping ground. You can convert an unsuitable slope to a usable tiered garden or a level area on which to place a patio. When landscaping, a consideration in the thoughts of many homeowners is whether or not to include a concrete footing. The answer is not a simple yes or no; it is a question of a number of important considerations, and we can help you make informed decisions at Bill’s Custom Concrete. 

The Significance of a Strong Foundation 

A retaining wall will need to be strong enough to support immense pressure from the soil behind it, pressure that is increased by water and elevation. A footing is part of the foundation of the wall, spreading its load to a larger surface area so it won’t shift, settle, or collapse. 

For most retaining walls, and particularly for high retaining walls, a solid footing for a concrete wall is not just the way to go – it’s required for permanent stability and security. A wall with a defective base is far more likely to collapse, leading to expensive repairs and possibly harm to your property.

Determinants of the Need for a Footing 

There are various considerations that decide whether you require a concrete footing for a retaining wall construction.

Wall Height 

The crucial factor involved here is the height of the wall. A small ornamental garden wall less than two feet high won’t need a deep concrete footing. Walls three or four feet or higher, though, are retaining a lot of ground and absolutely need to be supported by a solidly constructed, engineered foundation to keep on standing. Wondering, do I need a concrete footing for a retaining wall​? If your wall is tall, the answer is likely yes.

Soil Conditions 

The type of soil on the ground is significant. Loose/soft clays or sand soils do not hold and settle readily. In this case, you will have to place a footing for a concrete wall to create a solid base. Solid bedrock or dense draining soil is solid enough to hold a small-sized wall without a concrete foundation.

Water and Drainage 

Water is the worst nemesis of the retaining wall. Lack of drainage will result in hydrostatic pressure on the back face of the wall that will exert effect upon it. Areas or sites of increased water tables or rainfalls need a deep foundation, usually a footing made of concrete, to support this thrust and maintain the position of the wall. Knowing the proper retaining wall footing depth is essential for tackling water issues effectively.

Local Building Codes 

Check local building ordinances before building. Every city will have a list of ordinances that will pertain to retaining walls, and it will typically consist of engineered drawings and concrete footings on walls four to three feet and above. If these requirements are not satisfied, there will be fines and the removal and reconstruction of the wall accordingly.

Alternatives to Concrete Footings 

Although a concrete retaining wall in Oklahoma City is a popular option for larger walls, there exist additional materials that are applied on small walls that blend into the surroundings.

Compacted Gravel Base 

For low walls, a solidly compacted base course of gravel will generally suffice. This involves excavating the hole to the appropriate depth and bedding it down with a layer or two of crushed stone a few inches thick, and compaction down to a solid level base. This provides ideal drainage, again holding down pressure behind the wall to a minimum.

Geo-Grid Reinforcement 

Geo-grid is a stabilizing man-made reinforcement grid that underlies the earth stabilizing behind the wall, reinforced even more. It is spread out in courses between courses of wall blocks and down into the ground. 

Although typically spread on a gravel base, it provides excellent added reinforcement and can replace a large concrete footing on select projects. Want to know how to build a concrete footing for a retaining wall​? Start by ensuring the foundation is properly prepared with gravel and reinforcement like geo-grid.

How to Construct a Long-Lasting Wall 

Whether to put a concrete footing on the retaining wall or not will be based on the height of the wall, the type of ground, the problem of drainage, and local building ordinances. Although low walls used just to decorate may be supported when a properly compacted gravel base is used, larger and taller walls basically always should come with a concrete footing to be stable and long-lasting. Contact Bill’s Custom Concrete for tailored advice for your project!